Saturday, November 28, 2009

Travel Highlights

Jade Mountains, Emerald Seas
With Vistas, History and Rustic Charm, Yeosu's Got it All
Positively idyllic (and a splendid place to spend a weekend), Yeosu is undoubtedly one of the country’s most underrated destinations. Blessed with one of the finest natural environments in Korea, Yeosu is a pungent stew of rustic, small-town Korean charm and salty port-town atmosphere, served with a slice of history and delectable Jeolla-do cuisine. For view seekers, the city’s hills and mountains afford splendid vistas of the port and its surrounding coastline. You can also cruise out to some of the town’s many scenic islands, while less adventurous types can simply kick back or perhaps take a stroll along one of the city’s fine beaches, breathing deep the wonderful seaside atmosphere.
It’s All About Location
Yeosu is located on the Yeosu peninsula, which juts down from the city of Suncheon on Korea’s South Sea coast. In addition to the mountainous peninsula, which is connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus, Yeosu is blessed with some 317 islands, many of which are included in the Dadohae Haesang National Park and Hallyeohaesang National Park.Yeosu actually has two downtowns, the legacy of the 1998 merging of the cities of Yeosu and Yeocheon. For tourists, the old Yeosu downtown (and more specifically, the Central Rotary), located on a natural harbor at the southern end of the peninsula, is the one of most interest — it’s here where you’ll find the train station, ferry terminal and most of the fine views (the intercity bus terminal, however, is a bit outside downtown). Most of downtown Yeosu is accessible by foot or taxi. Some locations, like Hyangil-am Hermitage, require local bus rides (ask around for bus stops), while the islands, naturally enough, require boat trips.



Jinnamgwan Hall
The first spot you’ll want to check out is the massive Jinnamgwan Hall, located in the heart of downtown Yeosu overlooking the harbor. Designated National Treaure No. 304, the Jinnamgwan Hall is the largest single- story wood building in Korea. The massive structure — supported by 68 very imposing pillars — was built in 1598 and used as a state guesthouse and naval headquarters; it was from this site during the Imjin War that Admiral Yi engineered several of his victories over the invading Japanese. Noted guests of the guesthouse included Hendrick Hamel, the 17th century Dutch sailor whose journal of his not entirely voluntary sojourn in Korea provided the West with its first descriptions of the so-called Hermit Kingdom. As you’d expect from a former naval headquarters, the hall provides a good view of the harbor, including the landmark Dolsan Bridge.



Dolsan Bridge, Odong Island, Scenic Views
The Dolsan Bridge, which links the mainland with Dolsan Island, is Korea’s largest cable-stayed bridge. It’s also one of Korea’s most picturesque spans, especially at night when it’s lit up in rotating schemes of 50 different colors. Good views of the bridge and Yeosu harbor can be had from either end of the bridge (or, for that matter, the bridge itself), although the recommended photo spot is Dolsan Park, on Dolsan Island, especially at sundown. Odong-do is a small island connected to the mainland by a long breakwater. The island actually marks the entry to Hallyeohaesang National Park, and is famous for its camellia trees, which produce beautiful red blossoms in spring. Strolling amidst the island’s thick forests make for a pleasant way to spend an afternoon. The hilltop Jasan Park is one of the city’s most popular photo spot, providing awesome views of the harbor and nearby islands, including Odong-do. The park comes complete with a statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin, as well.

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